Tag: Bay Area

Categories
Stanford

Those Empty Switchbacks

I stopped when I hit this passage in Theo Baker’s new book, How to Rule the World:

“…through the redwood forests so thick with foliage that we couldn’t see the sun… some of the greatest driving roads in the world, with empty switchbacks and hairpins and sweeping corners to test ourselves. Never in my freshman year did I feel freer than on those drives.”

Seventeen years old, newly arrived at Stanford, and already he’d found the loophole. A few minutes off campus, past the ambition and the networking, the road empties out and climbs into redwoods so thick the sun disappears.

I know those roads. I’ve driven them for decades. Skyline on a clear morning, fog still sitting in the valleys. The curves above the coast when the Pacific goes the color of hammered silver. The sudden dark under the redwood canopy, ten degrees colder, the world narrowed to headlights and wet pavement.

Take Skyline up to Mountain House some evening for dinner with friends and you’ve driven the whole argument of this essay without meaning to. A few miles of switchbacks first, the fog closing in and opening up again, and then the parking lot with its redwood out front and the wood carving of Neil Young standing under it, watching you arrive.

What struck me wasn’t nostalgia. It was that Baker had gotten the feeling exactly right. The phone in the cupholder, the next meeting, the slow arithmetic of a life — gone, for the length of a few good corners. Just you, the machine, the light.

I felt an early version of it as a boy, in the back of a blue Dodge Dart, summer of 1960. Every evening my father spread the day’s map across the hood and studied tomorrow’s route. By noon the thin red lines were real places under our wheels. I never lost that. Decades later, living a few miles from the campus Baker writes about, the same lift still comes when the road opens and the hills start to roll.

The switchbacks demand attention and punish you for withholding it. In return: the rare feeling of being exactly where you were, with nowhere else to be. These days I find myself more protective of those pockets, not less.

The roads are still there. The redwoods still offer the same deal they offered a seventeen-year-old freshman. And at the top of the hill, under the big tree, Neil Young keeps watching the cars come up.

Categories
Aviation San Francisco/California

The Queen’s Last Climb Out of SFO

I watched the video this morning and felt that familiar tightening in the chest that only a certain airplane still produces in me.

It’s labeled simply enough: The Last 747-400 Departure out of SFO 5/31/26 LH455. The aircraft is D-ABVY, a Lufthansa 747-430 that first flew in December 2000. The passenger filming from seat 12K didn’t know it yet, but this was the final scheduled passenger 747-400 departure from San Francisco. Four engines spooling, wings flexing under the load, slats retracting, then the long climb out over the Bay — South San Francisco’s industrial lettering, the dark mass of Mount Diablo, two right turns, the airplane’s shadow racing across the ground, and the Pacific opening up ahead.

The Queen of the Skies, still doing what she was built to do, one last time from this airport.

The 747-400 has always sat at the top of my personal list. Not the stretched -8, though I flew one and respected it. The classic -400. The proportions are right. The upper deck still reads as a second story rather than an afterthought. The cockpit sits high enough that landing always seemed to demand something extra from the pilots. And those four engines have an authority in the sound that twins, however efficient, never quite match.

I first saw a 747 coming into SFO around 1970, watching something that size on final approach and finding it almost absurd. My first flight on one was a TWA trip from San Francisco to New York. I managed a few upper-deck seats along the way, which always felt like a quiet privilege. The last time I flew a 747 was 2016, a Lufthansa 747-8 from Bangalore to Frankfurt. I remember thinking the type still had years left, and being glad of it.

A few years ago, when Boeing delivered the final 747, I wrote a short piece called “Ode to a Queen.” I still feel the same way. The airplane made long-distance travel ordinary for people who’d never have managed it otherwise — and it was beautiful in a way pure efficiency rarely is. The -400 refined the original idea without losing its character. For decades it was the default long-haul workhorse, the one you hoped to see on the departure board.

Lufthansa has been the last major carrier flying passenger -400s into U.S. cities. The grounding is happening in stages now, with the last ones expected out of service next year. The 747-8 will hang on a while longer, but even that presence at SFO gives way to the A350 this coming winter. The video from May 31 caught something real closing: the last scheduled passenger 747-400 leaving the airport where so many of us first fell for the airplane.

I’m not usually one for nostalgia. The newer twins move people and cargo more efficiently and more safely, by almost every measure that matters. And still — something goes out of the sky when a design that carried this much of our collective imagination finally leaves the stage. The 747 never looked like a compromise. It looked like an answer to a question no one else had dared ask at that scale.

Watch the video if you have a few minutes. Sit with the wing flex and the engine note, the long view of the Bay Area falling away beneath a machine that made long-haul flight feel both ordinary and slightly miraculous, for more than three decades. D-ABVY did its job that afternoon in late May. The passenger in 12K, camera running, got something that airport won’t produce again.

I will miss her.

Categories
Bread California San Francisco/California

Larraburu

There were three sourdough breads in San Francisco and they were not the same thing. Boudin was at Fisherman’s Wharf, which told you everything. Parisian was on the better grocery shelves and at the airport, which told you the rest. Larraburu was in the neighborhood, which is to say it was not selling anything except bread.

I was living in Daly City when I found them. I was seventeen, or eighteen, which is the age when you begin to understand that the thing everyone points to is rarely the thing worth finding. I had eaten Boudin at the wharf, standing in the fog with everyone else who had just arrived somewhere. It was fine. It was what people meant when they said sourdough. Parisian was more serious, or wanted to be — the bread you bought at the airport to prove you’d really been here, to carry the city home in a bag. But there was something in both of them that felt like a performance, and I was at the age when performance was exactly what I was trying to see through.

Larraburu didn’t perform. The crust was softer than it had any right to be. The sour was there but it didn’t insist on itself. You tasted wheat and time and something faintly cool and creamy underneath. It was bread that assumed you already knew what you were doing.

They closed in 1976. Parisian lasted until 2007. Boudin is still on the wharf.

I have thought about this more than is strictly reasonable. What I keep coming back to is not the taste exactly, though the taste is there when I reach for it. What I keep coming back to is the distinction itself — the fact that I made it, that it mattered to me, that I was nineteen years old in Berkeley and buying bread from a neighborhood bakery in San Francisco because I had decided it was the real thing. You make these small declarations about who you are. Most of them dissolve. Some of them stay.

The two brothers who started Larraburu came from the Basque country in 1896 and brought their starter with them. By the time I was eating their bread the starter was already older than the state of California. They fed it three times a day, every day, for eighty years. That kind of commitment doesn’t announce itself. It just shows up in the bread.

In 1969 scientists from the United States Department of Agriculture began studying sourdough cultures from five San Francisco bakeries. They were trying to understand what made the bread taste the way it did, why you could not replicate it elsewhere, why bakers who moved away and took their starters with them found the flavor slowly changing, the sourness shifting, something essential escaping. They worked for years before a team at Oregon State University finally isolated what they were looking for — a previously unknown bacterium living inside the wild yeast, producing the lactic acid that gave the bread its character. They named it Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis. One of the five bakeries in the study was Larraburu.

The starter the brothers brought from the Basque country in 1896 was not simply old. It was a living record of every bakery it had passed through, every hand that had fed it, every climate it had survived. A sourdough starter is not a recipe. It is a culture in the biological sense — a community of organisms with a history, shaped by everything that has ever happened to it. You can write down the formula. You cannot write down what the starter knows.

Larraburu baked twenty-four hours a day. The sponge was rebuilt every eight hours, three times daily, without interruption. Two parts previous sponge, two parts high-gluten flour, one part water. Hold seven to eight hours. Rebuild. The rhythm was closer to farming than to cooking — less a process than a relationship, sustained across decades, across generations, across an ocean.

What I know now that I didn’t know then is that the starter survived the bakery. Someone saved a piece of it when they closed. It traveled to Hawaii, sat in a refrigerator on Maui, kept being fed. A culture that old doesn’t care about bankruptcy or lawsuits or whether the ovens are still running. It just wants flour and water and time.

I find something in that. Not consolation exactly. More like confirmation of something I already believed at seventeen, standing in the fog, learning to tell the difference.

Categories
Bonsai Filoli Living

The Patience of Small Things

There is a tree on a terrace at Filoli that is roughly the size of a lamp. It sits in a shallow black bowl, its trunk leaning with the easy confidence of something that has been leaning for decades, its canopy splayed against the California sky like a fist slowly opening. Behind it, the estate’s formal garden dissolves into soft focus — roses, balustrades, the suggestion of abundance. The bonsai doesn’t compete with any of it. It simply occupies its few cubic feet with a completeness that makes everything else feel approximate.

I’ve been thinking about what that completeness costs.

The tree is probably a juniper — the fibrous, spiraling bark, the dense scale-like foliage, the way the branch structure seems to remember every decision ever made about it. Bonsai practitioners talk about nebari, the visible surface roots, and movement, the quality of dynamism frozen into wood. This one has both. The trunk doesn’t just lean; it goes somewhere, pulled by some invisible argument the grower made with it over years, or decades, or longer. The moss at its base is so even and green it looks curated, because it was.

What strikes me standing in front of it is that this is a technology — not in the semiconductor sense, but in the older one. A technique for shaping time. The grower didn’t make this tree. They made conditions, and maintained them, and made them again, and the tree is what happened. The distinction matters. There’s no shortcut to the trunk diameter. There’s no prompt that produces the movement in that wood.

I work in a medium where the gap between intention and output has collapsed to nearly nothing. I describe something and it appears. There’s tremendous utility in that, and I’m not romantic enough to pretend otherwise. But Filoli’s bonsai terrace is a useful corrective — a reminder that some forms of beauty are only legible as records of duration. The lean of that trunk is not a feature. It’s an argument made slowly, over a life, against gravity.

I don’t know who grew it. I don’t know if they’re still alive. The tree, characteristically, offers no information about this. It just stands there in its bowl, complete, patient, not particularly interested in being understood.

Categories
Photography San Francisco/California

The Bittersweet Beauty of “Turning the Page” at Pier 24

My good friend Doug and I got together yesterday to visit the latest photography exhibition – “Turning the Page” – at the wonderful Pier 24 on San Francisco’s Embarcadero, a venue that’s an old friend of ours.

From the exhibition description: “Turning the Page…celebrates the photobook, a medium that has undergone its own renaissance parallel to our years in operation. Each of the galleries presents works from a distinct photobook, whether an iconic volume or a recent monograph. The content, sequence, and design of each selected book guided our approach to that particular installation, aiming for a thoughtful translation of its overall tone and intent.”

In this exhibition, the works of several photographers I know are combined with many works from photographers I haven’t known, making for a very varied but interesting exhibition. One, in particular, I enjoyed was Donavon Smallwood.

As has happened each time we’ve visited exhibitions at this venue, we came away with our spirits lifted and new insights gained from studying these photographs. The idea of featuring a photobook in each of the galleries was unique and delightful. (Note: If you want to view this exhibition, you need to make a reservation on the Pier 24 website. One of the wonderful things about Pier 24 is how they use the requirement for advance reservations to limit the number of visitors in the museum at any time – making for a very nice, unhurried browsing experience! Just be sure to book well in advance of when you want to attend – and the museum is only open Monday-Friday so keep that in mind as well!)

The current exhibition – “Turning the Page” – runs through January 2024. Unfortunately, it will be the last exhibition in this wonderful space for photography, which opened in 2010. As discussed in this news release from January 2023, The Pilara Foundation, the sponsor of Pier 24, has been unable to successfully negotiate a lease extension with the San Francisco Port Commission after trying to do so for five years. Sadly, the Commission is demanding a tripling of the current rent charged to the Foundation for the space at Pier 24. As a result, the Foundation has decided to close the museum when its lease expires in July 2025.

This is such a sad event for photography aficionados in the San Francisco Bay Area. There is simply no other venue that has done such a superb job displaying photography exhibitions as Pier 24. I’m very disappointed in the actions of the Port Commission, which are forcing the closing of this exceptional museum.