Category: San Francisco/California

Categories
Aging Living San Francisco/California Street Photography

The Zone

Sail Away - San Francisco - 2014

I have been alive for nearly a third of the time this country has existed. It arrived the way facts do at a certain age, sideways, while I was thinking about something else, and it sat me down. Two hundred and fifty years, and my own decades take up a third of it — whether I meant to claim that much room or not.

I used to think the road was where I went to escape the smallness of a life. Now the road doesn’t call the way it once did. Some of that is willingness. More of it, if I’m honest, is a body that’s less steady, a bladder with a mind of its own. The body files its objections. I used to override them. I no longer do — not because I’ve grown wise, but because the overriding costs more than it used to and buys less.

But I want to tell you about what I got instead, most Fridays, for not quite a decade, because it isn’t nothing.

Doug came across on the ferry from Larkspur, and I’d meet him at the Ferry Building — watching the boat come in, watching him pick his way down the gangway with his camera bag, before either of us had said a word or made a single decision about where to walk. Then we’d head out along the Embarcadero, sometimes up into the financial district, and for the first ten minutes my mind would do what minds do. It would analyze. It would compose. There, the light coming off that glass tower, wait for the man in the overcoat to cross into it, no — too late, gone. Appraising and timing, the way I’d once weighed a stock, or a runway, or a route.

And then, without my choosing it, something released. There’s no threshold you feel yourself cross. But sometime after the tenth minute, the appraising stopped, and seeing took over. Not looking for. Not looking at. The street would stop being a set of problems to solve and become only itself: a longshoreman on a break outside a pier, a gull working the same patch of pavement three times, fog sliding under the Bay Bridge like it had somewhere to be. Doug, a few yards off, would go quiet the same way, and we’d shoot for an hour or two and then find each other again at the end of the block.

By then we’d have worked up an appetite for something other than pictures. Tadich Grill, if we could get in — the linen and the old wood and the waiters who’d been there longer than some of our careers. We’d order something plain and good, and that’s when the talking would start. Not small talk. The real kind. Work, kids, the state of things, whatever had lodged itself in each of us that week. The seeing on the street and the talking over lunch were not two different activities. They were the same hour, extended. One was attention paid to the world. The other was attention paid to each other.

I have flown airplanes and driven through weather I shouldn’t have, and I loved both for the demand they made on me — the total, narrowing attention that leaves no room for the self that worries. What I didn’t understand then was that a boat crossing from Larkspur, and a Friday, and an old friend across a table at Tadich, could ask the same thing of me, for free, without a single mile of my own driving.

Covid stopped it. Not gradually — the way most rituals fade, through scheduling and distance and the slow drift of people’s lives — but all at once, the way everything stopped that spring. The ferry didn’t run. The restaurants closed. We never quite picked it back up, not the way it was. I don’t think either of us decided to let it go. It just didn’t survive being interrupted.

A third of the country’s whole life, and it took me most of my own to learn what those Fridays were teaching me — and then to lose them before I’d finished learning it. I still see the ferry pulling in. I still see Doug on the gangway with his camera bag, in no hurry, already half in the zone before his feet touch the dock.

Categories
Bread California San Francisco/California

Larraburu

There were three sourdough breads in San Francisco and they were not the same thing. Boudin was at Fisherman’s Wharf, which told you everything. Parisian was on the better grocery shelves and at the airport, which told you the rest. Larraburu was in the neighborhood, which is to say it was not selling anything except bread.

I was living in Daly City when I found them. I was seventeen, or eighteen, which is the age when you begin to understand that the thing everyone points to is rarely the thing worth finding. I had eaten Boudin at the wharf, standing in the fog with everyone else who had just arrived somewhere. It was fine. It was what people meant when they said sourdough. Parisian was more serious, or wanted to be — the bread you bought at the airport to prove you’d really been here, to carry the city home in a bag. But there was something in both of them that felt like a performance, and I was at the age when performance was exactly what I was trying to see through.

Larraburu didn’t perform. The crust was softer than it had any right to be. The sour was there but it didn’t insist on itself. You tasted wheat and time and something faintly cool and creamy underneath. It was bread that assumed you already knew what you were doing.

They closed in 1976. Parisian lasted until 2007. Boudin is still on the wharf.

I have thought about this more than is strictly reasonable. What I keep coming back to is not the taste exactly, though the taste is there when I reach for it. What I keep coming back to is the distinction itself — the fact that I made it, that it mattered to me, that I was nineteen years old in Berkeley and buying bread from a neighborhood bakery in San Francisco because I had decided it was the real thing. You make these small declarations about who you are. Most of them dissolve. Some of them stay.

The two brothers who started Larraburu came from the Basque country in 1896 and brought their starter with them. By the time I was eating their bread the starter was already older than the state of California. They fed it three times a day, every day, for eighty years. That kind of commitment doesn’t announce itself. It just shows up in the bread.

In 1969 scientists from the United States Department of Agriculture began studying sourdough cultures from five San Francisco bakeries. They were trying to understand what made the bread taste the way it did, why you could not replicate it elsewhere, why bakers who moved away and took their starters with them found the flavor slowly changing, the sourness shifting, something essential escaping. They worked for years before a team at Oregon State University finally isolated what they were looking for — a previously unknown bacterium living inside the wild yeast, producing the lactic acid that gave the bread its character. They named it Lactobacillus sanfranciscensis. One of the five bakeries in the study was Larraburu.

The starter the brothers brought from the Basque country in 1896 was not simply old. It was a living record of every bakery it had passed through, every hand that had fed it, every climate it had survived. A sourdough starter is not a recipe. It is a culture in the biological sense — a community of organisms with a history, shaped by everything that has ever happened to it. You can write down the formula. You cannot write down what the starter knows.

Larraburu baked twenty-four hours a day. The sponge was rebuilt every eight hours, three times daily, without interruption. Two parts previous sponge, two parts high-gluten flour, one part water. Hold seven to eight hours. Rebuild. The rhythm was closer to farming than to cooking — less a process than a relationship, sustained across decades, across generations, across an ocean.

What I know now that I didn’t know then is that the starter survived the bakery. Someone saved a piece of it when they closed. It traveled to Hawaii, sat in a refrigerator on Maui, kept being fed. A culture that old doesn’t care about bankruptcy or lawsuits or whether the ovens are still running. It just wants flour and water and time.

I find something in that. Not consolation exactly. More like confirmation of something I already believed at seventeen, standing in the fog, learning to tell the difference.

Categories
AI California San Francisco/California

Distant Billboards

Greg Isenberg came back from San Francisco with seventeen observations. The billboards advertising either B2B inference infrastructure or vertical agent companies, the seed rounds, the forward-deployed engineers, the founders showing each other their Obsidian vaults like athletes comparing gym routines.

He noted an important thing in observation fifteen, almost as an aside.

Walking around the Mission I noticed something: the street-level businesses, the taquerias, the barbershops, the laundromats — none of them use any AI at all.

Everett Rogers formalized the technology diffusion model in 1962. He was studying hybrid seed corn in Iowa. He noticed that the farmers who adopted early weren’t just better informed — they had different social networks, different relationships to risk, different orientations toward outside knowledge. The late adopters weren’t slower. They were operating from a different set of facts about what was safe to try.

Those AI billboards in SoMa are not visible in the Mission. That’s not metaphor. That’s just geography.

What strikes me about the taqueria is not that it’s behind. It’s that the conversation happening a mile away — about MCP endpoints and agent fleets — is not legible to it. The vocabulary doesn’t exist there yet. Nobody has sat across from the woman making carnitas for twenty years and said: here is what this could do for your ordering, your scheduling, your response to a customer who asks on Yelp at 11pm whether you’re open on Monday. One day her daughter or son might.

The builder class optimizes for the builder class. You build what you understand, for people whose problems you can see. The founders in SoMa understand each other’s problems with extraordinary precision.

The woman making carnitas has different problems — thinner margins, less access to capital, relationships built over decades that don’t easily transfer to a new system. Nobody is at the Series A meeting making the case that her problems are the interesting ones.

The historian of technology David Nye wrote about the “technological sublime” — the awe Americans felt in the nineteenth century standing before a great bridge or a locomotive or the first electrified city. The feeling was real. But the sublime is a view from a particular angle. The workers who built the bridge experienced something quite different. The families displaced by the railroad’s right-of-way experienced something different still.

The question isn’t whether the technology will eventually reach her. It will. The diffusion curve is patient. It likely will surprise.

The question is whether anyone is doing the translation work. The act of standing in a specific kind of life and asking: what would this actually change here? In the actual kitchen, on the actual Tuesday.

Isenberg noted that the coworking spaces in SF are half empty but the coffee shops are packed. People want to be around people.

The taqueria is also a place where people want to be around people. It has been that for a long time.

She’ll adapt. She’s been adapting for twenty years.

But that’s a very different story than the one being told in San Francisco on those billboards.

Categories
AI New York City San Francisco/California Work

The Paradox of the Pulse

The skyline has always been a silhouette of our collective ambition. For a century, the steel and glass towers of our major cities functioned as the secular cathedrals of the modern age. But as Andrew Yang observes in his reflection on the shifting urban landscape, the pews are emptying. The “doom loop”—a self-reinforcing cycle of vacant offices, declining tax revenue, and diminishing services—is a mathematical ghost haunting our city planners.

Yet, if you walk the streets of Manhattan today, the sidewalks are often busier than ever. In San Francisco, the “Cerebral Valley” AI boom is sparking a gold rush of intellect that rivals the original tech explosion. We are witnessing a strange paradox: the Death of the Office occurring simultaneously with a Rebirth of the Urban Pulse.

The crisis Yang describes is real, but it may be a crisis of form rather than function. We tolerated the friction of urban life for the sake of career “flow.” Now that the flow is digital, the city is being forced to justify its existence through something more primal: energy.

“We are looking at a fundamental restructuring of the American city. The office was the sun around which everything else revolved. Now, that sun is dimming.”

The AI boom isn’t happening over Zoom; it’s happening in “hacker houses” and shared spaces where the speed of a conversation over coffee outpaces a fiber-optic connection. This suggests that the “doom loop” might only apply to the traditional, sterile corporate cubicle. The city is shedding its skin. It is moving away from being a place where we must be, toward a place where we want to be.

Yang’s warning serves as a necessary guardrail. We cannot ignore the fiscal cliff of empty high-rises. However, the vibrancy of NYC and the reinvigoration of SF suggest that the city isn’t dying—it’s just no longer a captive audience. We are standing in the ruins of an old habit, watching a new, more intentional way of living together take root in the cracks.

Five Questions to Ponder

  • The Pull of Proximity: If we no longer have to be in the city for a paycheck, what is the specific “energy” that keeps you coming back to the sidewalk?
  • The AI Renaissance: Is the AI boom in SF proof that high-innovation industries require physical density, or is it just the last gasp of the old model?
  • Form vs. Function: If a skyscraper can no longer be an office, what is the most radical thing it could become to serve a “busy” city?
  • The Captive Audience: For decades, cities were built for people who had to be there. How does a city change when it has to “woo” its citizens every single day?
  • Digital Nomads vs. Urban Anchors: Are we moving toward a world of “temporary density,” where cities are vibrant hubs for projects but no longer long-term homes?
Categories
Interstate 280 San Francisco/California San Jose

The Scenic Route Home

“In a world optimized for speed and engagement, 280 is a reminder that infrastructure can be art.”

It is a strange paradox that in the heart of Silicon Valley—a place defined by the ephemeral, the digital, and the instantaneous—a cherished shared experience is a physical ribbon of highway that hasn’t changed much in fifty years.

My post from last April, “The World’s Most Beautiful Freeway,” has recently found a new wave of readers. I’ve been asking myself: Why? Why does a blog post about Interstate 280, written by a retiree exploring local history, resonate so deeply right now?

Perhaps it’s because I-280 is more than just a commute. As I noted in the original piece, even Sunset Magazine in 1967 recognized it as “a modern and scenic boulevard.” It was a bold claim for a freeway, yet it stuck. While its sibling, US 101, is a clogged artery of billboard-choked utility, 280 feels like a deep breath. It is the “scenic route” we are lucky enough to take right in our own backyard.

There is a powerful nostalgia in that drive. We all remember the sign that used to sit in the median near Cupertino—the one that literally proclaimed it “The World’s Most Beautiful Freeway”—before it vanished. We remember the way the fog rolls over the Santa Cruz Mountains, spilling into the crystal bowl of the reservoir.

But I think the recent interest goes deeper than pretty scenery. We are living in an era of rapid, often disorienting change. I used ChatGPT to help research the history of that road, a small testament to how AI is weaving into our daily inquiries. Yet, the road itself remains a constant. It was designed by engineers like Othmar Ammann and planners who chose the harder, more expensive route through the foothills rather than paving over El Camino Real. They chose beauty over pure efficiency.

That choice resonates today. In a world optimized for speed and engagement, 280 is a reminder that infrastructure can be art. It connects the headquarters of the companies building our future (Apple, Google, Meta) with the wild, golden hills of California’s past. It is a physical timeline of the Peninsula.

Maybe we are revisiting this post because we are craving that balance. We want to know that even as we rush toward the future at freeway speeds, we can still look out the window and see something timeless, something beautiful, something that reminds us where we are.

Categories
Energy San Francisco/California Texas

Drilling for Redemption

It’s often said that the future arrives in disguise, wearing the hand-me-downs of the past. Nowhere is this more evident than in the scrublands of Texas, where a quiet revolution is taking place—one that looks suspiciously like the old status quo.

A recent New York Times story caught my eye: Not All Drilling in Texas Is About Oil. It details how the Lone Star State is rapidly becoming a hub for geothermal innovation. But here is the twist: they are doing it by repurposing the very tools, technology, and roughneck talent that built their oil empire.

“The state has become a hub of innovation for creating electricity using geothermal power. Just don’t call it renewable.”

There is a profound irony here. For decades, the narrative has been a binary battle: Dirty vs. Clean, Old Energy vs. New. But in Texas, the lines are blurring. The same drill bits that once pierced the earth for carbon are now hunting for heat. It turns out that if you know how to drill deep and manage pressure, you are halfway to solving one of the world’s most sustainable energy puzzles.

Here in California we’ve often prided ourselves on being at the vanguard of the green revolution, yet our own geothermal legacy is practically ancient history. Just north of San Francisco lies The Geysers, the world’s largest geothermal field. It has been quietly churning out electricity since 1960. It’s a marvel of the “old way”—tapping into rare, natural dry steam reservoirs. It was the low-hanging fruit of the geothermal world.

It turns out that what’s happening in Texas is different than at The Geysers. It’s the “hard stuff.” They aren’t just finding steam; they are engineering the earth to release steam, using advanced techniques to crack hot rock and circulate water. It is a technological leap that stands on the shoulders of the oil giants.

There is a beautiful lesson in this convergence. We tend to discard our past selves when we try to grow. We want a fresh start, a clean slate. But true evolution—whether in energy grids or our own lives—rarely works that way. We usually have to use the skills we learned in our “messy” phases to build our cleaner futures.

Years ago California showed us the resource was there. Texas is now showing us how to reach it in more places.

Categories
Living San Francisco/California Weather

Fall has arrived…

Here in the San Francisco Bay Area we often have our best weather in the fall – September and October in particular. That’s after the summer fog is mostly gone and temperatures warm up – especially if there’s a high pressure area inland that causes warm offshore winds that push higher temperatures into the Bay.

The downside is those winds and higher temperatures are also what bring with them the greatly elevated risks of wildfires – with most of the worst files in California occuring in these fall months.

This year it feels like we may escape some of those wildfire risks following the first real rainfall of the season which arrived on Tuesday with an offshore low pressure system gradually moving down the coast from Oregon to Southern California. As it moved, it picked up moisture from the Pacific Ocean and dumped it onshore – in particular, Southern California seemed to get the worst of it. With the rain came much colder temperatures – the first time I’ve needed to wear my heavier coat with a hood this fall.

With that weather system now moving across the rest of the U.S., we’re looking at a week or ten days of nicer fall weather with daytime temperatures mostly in the 70’s and overnight lows in the low 50’s – just about ideal for this time or year.

Let’s hope this week’s rain put an end to the risk of wildfires this year – but it may be too early to count on the just yet.

Categories
Payments San Francisco/California

The Banker’s Heart

Back when I was teaching Payments Boot Camps I used to tell stories about the dramatic impact that Dee Hock had on the evolution of the payment card industry globally. One of my favorites was to show a photo of this black granite sculpture and to relate this story of Dee’s about “the banker’s heart”!

Here’s a photo of the sculpture that I made on one of my many visits to that building over the years:

The Banker’s Heart – 555 California Street, San Francisco

Atlas Obscura notes:

The sculpture’s official name is “Transcendence,” and it was sculpted by Masayuki Nagare from 200 tons of black Swedish granite. It was commissioned in 1969 for the A.P. Giannini Plaza of 555 California Street, the building that was originally the headquarters for Bank of America…

Categories
AI Books Google NotebookLM San Francisco/California Writing

The 280 Project

Way back in 2016 when I was contemplating my retirement, I found myself pondering what projects might keep me engaged once my long-standing career in payments consulting came to an end. One compelling idea that emerged during this reflective period was the prospect of writing another book. This time, I envisioned the topic focusing on the intriguing story behind Interstate 280, often referred to as “the world’s most beautiful freeway.”

Our family’s migration from the Midwest to California took place in the early 1960s, a time when the interstate highway system in the San Francisco Bay Area was still a work in progress. At that point, I-280 had not yet been completed. As I approached the age of obtaining my driver’s license and gained the freedom that came with access to a car, I remember setting off on explorative drives down the peninsula. During those excursions, I gradually became aware of the ongoing construction and development involved in building this iconic road.

Eventually, after years of planning and labor, I-280 was completed in the early 1970s. At that time, I was working for IBM and was engaged in a project that took me down to an IBM lab facility located on Sand Hill Road—a place that has since vanished. Driving along I-280 during those initial years was an absolute delight, with the smooth asphalt feeling fresh and new under my tires. The experience of traversing a well-constructed highway surrounded by natural beauty was euphoric.

Sidenote: that IBM lab on Sand Hill Road was where Gene Amdahl was working on what turned out to be his last project working for IBM. That project was abruptly terminated one day and Amdahl left to found what became Amdahl Computer, developer of the first of the serious IBM mainframe “clone” threats.

In stark contrast to other freeways that meander through urban landscapes or feature monotonous views, 280’s route is distinguished by its breathtaking scenery. The rolling hills, lush vegetation, and stunning vistas create a picturesque drive that sparkles in comparison to its sibling highway, US 101, which navigates through the more densely populated areas closer to San Francisco Bay.

As I brainstormed the possibility of transforming my interest in I-280 into a full-fledged book project, I realized there must be an abundance of fascinating stories to uncover regarding the history of this highway—particularly pertaining to how the route was established and agreed upon. To delve deeper into this narrative, I invested considerable time gathering a wealth of documents. A few hours of dedicated Google searches yielded a treasure trove of information, which I organized into a folder for easy access. However, I soon found myself lacking a clear methodology for effectively utilizing these documents to craft an engaging narrative.

Recently, I have begun experimenting with Google’s NotebookLM, which appears to be tailored precisely to meet my needs. This innovative tool allows me to input numerous documents and then facilitates various inquiries about the collected material. I can explore whether there are any captivating and compelling stories waiting to be told. As I embark on this new journey of exploration, I am filled with a sense of excitement and renewed vigor for my little project. While it remains uncertain whether a full-fledged book will emerge from this endeavor, I am intrigued by the possibilities and look forward to seeing how this story unfolds. Perhaps this exploration will not only breathe life into my ideas but also provide a narrative worth sharing with others. We shall see!

Categories
Books San Francisco/California

Remembering Stacey’s – San Francisco’s Downtown Bookstore

During my college years and after, I worked in the downtown San Francisco financial district. It was a busy place with lots of folks commuting into town.

One of my favorite places during those years (1970-1974) was Stacey’s Bookstore on Market Street. It was such a wonderful bookstore – deep in technical books, an upstairs and a downstairs area, and a great staff who was welcoming and helpful.

Unfortunately, Stacey’s eventually closed – wrapping things up in 2009. Stacey’s was independent, not part of any of the larger bookstore chains. It became one of many independent bookstores that closed during that era – a combination of the effects of Amazon and the larger chains with their bookstores located in suburban shopping malls. It seems like we may be through that “bookstore winter” as we’ve got a couple of thriving local independent bookstores and there seem to me many more now around the country.

I’m not sure what brought Stacey’s into my mind this morning – one of those fleeting thoughts that managed to stick. But those are good memories – a place where I enjoyed endless browsing and made many purchases of business and technical/computer-related books over the years.

Here’s a good article on the final chapter for Stacey’s.