Tag: driving

Categories
Stanford

Those Empty Switchbacks

I stopped when I hit this passage in Theo Baker’s new book, How to Rule the World:

“…through the redwood forests so thick with foliage that we couldn’t see the sun… some of the greatest driving roads in the world, with empty switchbacks and hairpins and sweeping corners to test ourselves. Never in my freshman year did I feel freer than on those drives.”

Seventeen years old, newly arrived at Stanford, and already he’d found the loophole. A few minutes off campus, past the ambition and the networking, the road empties out and climbs into redwoods so thick the sun disappears.

I know those roads. I’ve driven them for decades. Skyline on a clear morning, fog still sitting in the valleys. The curves above the coast when the Pacific goes the color of hammered silver. The sudden dark under the redwood canopy, ten degrees colder, the world narrowed to headlights and wet pavement.

Take Skyline up to Mountain House some evening for dinner with friends and you’ve driven the whole argument of this essay without meaning to. A few miles of switchbacks first, the fog closing in and opening up again, and then the parking lot with its redwood out front and the wood carving of Neil Young standing under it, watching you arrive.

What struck me wasn’t nostalgia. It was that Baker had gotten the feeling exactly right. The phone in the cupholder, the next meeting, the slow arithmetic of a life — gone, for the length of a few good corners. Just you, the machine, the light.

I felt an early version of it as a boy, in the back of a blue Dodge Dart, summer of 1960. Every evening my father spread the day’s map across the hood and studied tomorrow’s route. By noon the thin red lines were real places under our wheels. I never lost that. Decades later, living a few miles from the campus Baker writes about, the same lift still comes when the road opens and the hills start to roll.

The switchbacks demand attention and punish you for withholding it. In return: the rare feeling of being exactly where you were, with nowhere else to be. These days I find myself more protective of those pockets, not less.

The roads are still there. The redwoods still offer the same deal they offered a seventeen-year-old freshman. And at the top of the hill, under the big tree, Neil Young keeps watching the cars come up.

Categories
Memories Music

The Engineering of Feeling

You’re always captive when it happens. A stoplight in the rain. A straightaway with nothing to look at but the white lines. Eight lanes of brake lights and nowhere to be but exactly where you are. The riff starts, and you’re not driving anymore so much as being driven — pinned by something that arrived four decades before you got in the car.

It happened once near Havana. You were there with a camera, working the old cars — fat-fendered Chevys and Buicks, kept running past the embargo by Cuban mechanics who became, out of necessity, a nation of engineers, scavenging parts and refusing to let something good die just because the factory that made it no longer existed. You didn’t think about Tom Scholz once, photographing a ’57 Bel Air held together by stubbornness. But the two belong in the same sentence. A man in a basement in Watertown, Massachusetts, kept a song alive the same way — building the tools himself when the tools that existed weren’t good enough.

Scholz had a master’s from MIT and a day job at Polaroid, designing the instant camera that would eventually lose to the VCR. He was an engineer — the kind who solves problems by taking them apart. What he did nights and weekends for five years instead was build a recording studio in his basement and use it to construct a song about a girl he’d loved in school, inspired by an old Left Banke single that used to ambush him with longing every time it came on. He played almost every instrument himself, layering twelve-string acoustic over electric over more electric, take after take, through amplifiers he’d built because the ones on the market couldn’t get the sound in his head. By the time Epic signed the band, the label assumed the demo was already a finished master. It was — just not one made anywhere near a studio.

An engineer built the least mechanical-sounding record of 1976. Every track is stacked with the precision of someone who understood signal paths better than he understood how to be a rock star. None of it sounds calculated when it hits you. The quiet drifts a few bars, then the chorus arrives like a held breath let go — the same structural trick Kurt Cobain would later borrow, half-consciously, for “Smells Like Teen Spirit.” Scholz built the explosion out of engineering. What you feel is the girl, the ache, the years.

The song is about the way music smuggles you back into a memory without asking permission. Scholz built that experience the way memory actually works — not in one clean take, but in fragments, layered over years, until the whole thing cohered into something that felt, impossibly, spontaneous. The method is the meaning. He didn’t just write a song about the past ambushing you. He built the ambush, piece by piece, until it was good enough to catch strangers in cars forty years later who never loved the same girl and never will.

Another song does this to you too, and it got there by the opposite road. “Listen to the Music” arrived almost the way lightning does. Tom Johnston wrote it in his bedroom on 12th Street in San Jose, brought it to his producer half-finished, and the band recorded it without changing a thing — no five years, no basement, no solitary engineer stacking takes until three in the morning. Its density comes from somewhere else: Patrick Simmons’ loose fingerpicking threading against Johnston’s percussive strumming, two drummers locking into a groove that shouldn’t work this easily, and one bold studio choice — a phasing effect, that underwater jet-swirl, laid over the vocals as well as the guitars, which almost nobody does. It sounds less like a song someone assembled than a room full of people who fell into the same current at once, then got bent sideways by one effect and printed.

Two songs, same seat, same stretch of road, opposite methods — one built alone across five years by a man who wouldn’t let go of a track until it was right, the other built in days by musicians whose parts happened to interlock, finished by a single flourish nobody else was doing quite that way. There’s more than one route to the kind of complexity that outlasts you. Refuse to stop. Or know exactly when to.