I have been thinking about a steak, and about Charlie Munger.
Munger liked to say, “invert, always invert,” meaning that some problems give up more easily if you turn them around and look at them from the back.
I don’t know that he ever cooked a steak in his life, but the advice applies to one anyway. There is a method called reverse searing, and it works like this: you put the meat in a slow oven first, so it warms through gently and evenly, and only at the very end do you give it a hard, fast sear in a hot pan, just long enough for a crust.
This is backward from how most of us were taught — sear first, finish low — and it turns out the old way was mostly wrong, or at least less reliable. The middle of the meat and the outside of the meat have different jobs, and trying to make one method serve both has always been a small, forgivable mistake.
Tri-tip is a peculiar cut of beef — the grain runs one way across part of it and then quietly changes direction, so that if you slice straight through without noticing, you end up with something tougher than it needed to be. You have to find the place where it shifts and turn your knife with it. It isn’t hard, once you know to look. There’s usually a faint seam where the change happens, almost like a crease in fabric, and once you’ve found it you’ll find it every time after.
I don’t want to make too much of this. It does seem true, in cooking and in other things, that the order you do something in matters more than people let on, and that the patient, unglamorous part — the slow oven, the waiting — usually deserves more credit than it gets.
The sear is what you remember. The low heat is what made it possible.
This week’s New York Times Magazine included an article titled “
– a hand-operated manual press that turns out to be SO much better than the traditional French press. 