Amanda Hesser reports on French restaurants in San Francisco.
The new bistros in San Francisco are French at the core, but American in manner. The frisée aux lardons at Chez Spencer, for instance, is smartened with a fan of smoked duck breast resting under the frisée. The lamb chops at Chez Nous are sprinkled with coarse sea salt infused with lavender; two chops are served alone. A watercress salad at Absinthe is brightened with slices of local persimmon and pomegranate seeds.