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AI

The Kitchen, Not the Farm

There is a sentence buried in Thinking Machines Lab’s release notes for Inkling, its first proprietary model, that most companies would never let out the door. Describing their own creation, the company states plainly that Inkling is “not the strongest overall model available today, open or closed.”

Read that again. A startup that raised two billion dollars in seed funding at a twelve-billion-dollar valuation, founded by OpenAI’s former CTO and staffed with veterans of the labs currently locked in the most capital-intensive arms race in corporate history, shipped its debut model with an admission of inferiority attached to the label. Not buried in a footnote. Stated in the announcement.

It seems like this was the clearest signal yet that the frontier-capability race may be the wrong game, and that durable value in enterprise AI accrues not to whoever has the smartest model, but to whoever owns the layer where that model gets adapted to a particular customer’s purpose.

As I’ve thought about it, the AI industry seems to be stratifying into three distinct businesses, each with different economics, occupied by a different cast of companies.

It begins with the farm, where the raw ingredients get grown. Then there’s the kitchen, the capital equipment that makes skilled cooking possible at scale. Lastly there’s the restaurant, where somebody who understands a specific customer takes the ingredients, uses the kitchen, and puts a particular dish in front of a particular diner who is paying for a complete meal, not just the flour or the vegetables. Thinking Machines seems to me like a clear example of a company trying to explain which of those businesses it’s actually in. It is not the only one.

The sequence, read backward

Founded in February 2025. Silent for over a year. Then, last October, the company’s first product emerged — and it wasn’t a chatbot, wasn’t an assistant, wasn’t anything a consumer like me would recognize or understand. It was Tinker, a fine-tuning API. Infrastructure for customizing other people’s models, shipped before the company had released a model of its own.

That sequencing is the tell. A company chasing frontier supremacy builds the model first and the tooling around it later, the way the frontier AI labs have all done. Thinking Machines inverted the order. It built the workshop before it built anything to put in the workshop window, which only makes sense if the workshop was always the product.

Inkling, released this month, doesn’t reverse that logic. It completes it. The model is described in the company’s own materials as “an extremely knowledgeable, generalist base that can be extended via fine-tuning” — language that positions the model itself as raw material, not a finished good. It ships with full open weights, day-zero availability on Tinker, and a name chosen, according to the company, to evoke “an idea in its earliest stage, with the potential to grow into something greater.” Even the naming is a thesis statement. Inkling is not meant to be the only thing you use. It’s meant to be the thing you start from.

In the farm-kitchen-restaurant frame, it seems like Thinking Machines is trying to own two levels of the stack at once. Inkling is the farm — grown at real expense, forty-five trillion tokens of training data, frontier-scale compute. Tinker is the kitchen — the induction range and the walk-in fridge, sold as a service to whoever wants to cook. What Thinking Machines has explicitly declined to be, by its own admission, is the restaurant. They are not trying to serve you the best possible dish. They are trying to make sure that whoever does serve you that dish is buying their ingredients and standing at their stove and cooking in their kitchen.

The manifesto that preceded the model

A company doesn’t back into a strategy this coherent by accident. Earlier this month — before Inkling shipped — the lab published a position paper arguing that most AI today is trained in a handful of places and then frozen, a design that by its nature excludes the people the model is meant to serve. Their proposed alternative: AI that is distributed, customizable, and shaped by the people using it, not the lab that built it.

Mira Murati has said the same thing more plainly, and said it a year before Inkling existed, back when Tinker launched. Her framing wasn’t about building the smartest model. It was about making “frontier capabilities much more accessible to all people” — democratization as the mission, not capability supremacy. That is a genuinely different objective function than the one driving her former employer, and it was declared outright, not discovered after the fact to explain a disappointing benchmark result.

Inkling is a 975-billion-parameter mixture-of-experts model trained on forty-five trillion tokens across text, image, audio, and video, with a context window stretching to a million tokens. That is frontier-scale compute expenditure. This isn’t a company that ran out of runway and settled for a smaller ambition. It’s a company that spent frontier-level resources and then declined to spend the final increment chasing benchmark supremacy, presumably because the return on that increment doesn’t show up in the business they’re building.

A second detail: Inkling reportedly uses one-third the tokens of Nemotron 3 Ultra to hit equivalent performance on agentic coding benchmarks. That’s not a capability retreat — that’s a capability choice, optimizing for efficiency and cost-per-task rather than raw benchmark position. And the company is previewing a smaller sibling model alongside Inkling, suggesting a family strategy across sizes rather than a single mid-tier release.

The restaurant next door: Palantir

Thinking Machines isn’t the only company making this bet — and looking at who else is making it shows not everyone is occupying the same layer.

Earlier this month Palantir and Nvidia announced a “Sovereign AI Operating System” — Nvidia’s open Nemotron models, fine-tuned on a customer’s own data, running on Nvidia hardware inside that customer’s own air-gapped network, with Palantir’s Ontology and Foundry software layered on top. CEO Alex Karp pointed out that his enterprise customers don’t want to risk sharing their IP with frontier model providers and asked simply why wouldn’t they control the weights?

It’s tempting to read this as the same argument Thinking Machines is making. It isn’t, quite. What Palantir is selling is the restaurant: the finished, seasoned, plated product — an air-gapped AI system wired into a specific government agency’s or enterprise customer’s actual workflows, with “you control the weights” as the pitch that closes the deal. Palantir isn’t growing wheat. It’s the chef, working with ingredients somebody else grew. Somebody who could be trusted.

Another restaurant: Sierra

Sierra, Bret Taylor and Clay Bavor’s customer-support agent company, makes the same choice even more starkly. Sierra’s own technical writing describes a “constellation of models” architecture: rather than betting on a single LLM, Sierra routes each task inside a customer-service agent to whichever model — from OpenAI, Anthropic, Meta, or elsewhere — handles it best, and explicitly says it invests “in fine-tuned models where off-the-shelf models fail to meet our constraints.” Fine-tuning shows up in Sierra’s stack as one tool among several, alongside retrieval and layered “supervisor” models that catch mistakes before a customer sees them. Sierra has no interest in being a model company or an infrastructure company. It wants to be the restaurant that happens to keep a few specialty ingredients in the walk-in that nobody else stocks, because the dish needs them and they know just how to include them.

Mapping the rest of the stack

The farm-kitchen-restaurant split shows up everywhere the fine-tuning economy has organized itself.

The kitchen-builders — companies selling fine-tuning infrastructure to whoever wants to cook with it, indifferent to what gets made — now form a crowded field: Thinking Machines’ Tinker, Together AI, Fireworks AI, Predibase, OpenPipe, Baseten, Modal, Databricks’ Mosaic stack, and newer entrants like Nebius’s Token Factory and Prime Intellect. None of them care whether you’re building a coding agent, a legal research tool, or a customer-service bot.

The restaurants — companies where fine-tuning is invisible plumbing inside a finished, vertical product — include Palantir and Sierra, and many others. The addressable market for fine-tuning seems to include almost every possible enterprise adopting AI.

What’s seems unusual about Thinking Machines is that it’s trying to be the farm and the kitchen simultaneously while declining, by its own public admission, to be the restaurant. Most companies pick one layer and defend it. Thinking Machines is betting that owning two of the three is the more durable position — grow the flour, own the stove, and let Palantir, Sierra, and a thousand enterprise engineering teams fight over who plates the dish.

The same stack, built by design

As I was thinking about this, I wondered how this relates to the AI activities underway in China. It seems that China’s AI industry maps onto this same three-layer structure with unusual clarity — and one genuine wrinkle the American version doesn’t have.

The farm is crowded and innovating on a different axis than size: DeepSeek, Alibaba’s Qwen, Zhipu AI, Moonshot AI, MiniMax, ByteDance’s Doubao and Seedance. The standout isn’t scale, it’s efficiency — DeepSeek’s V3.2 reportedly uses a novel sparse attention mechanism to nearly match GPT-5 and Gemini 3 on complex reasoning despite far less compute, a different kind of farming: not more wheat, but wheat bred to need less water. Qwen has become the default soil for the rest of the world’s kitchens, generating over 100,000 derivative fine-tunes on Hugging Face. VC’s in Silicon Valley note how frequently their startup companies are building on Qwen.

The kitchen layer has its own SiliconFlow — a Beijing infrastructure startup, backed by Alibaba Cloud, that bills itself as the neutral layer between AI applications and hardware. It solves a problem others never had to: China’s compute runs across fragmented domestic chips, Huawei’s Ascend line chief among them, that don’t share Nvidia’s CUDA ecosystem. SiliconFlow abstracts that fragmentation away — it became the fastest platform serving DeepSeek traffic, and the only large provider running DeepSeek on Ascend chips instead of Nvidia’s. That’s a stove engineered to burn whatever fuel is in the tank that week, a direct product of the U.S. chip export controls rather than any inherent technical edge. Volcano Engine, Alibaba Cloud’s PAI, and Baidu’s Qianfan are versions of the same layer.

The restaurant layer is where China’s picture diverges most from Palantir and Sierra’s venture-funded improvisation: it’s named industrial policy.

Beijing’s “AI+” initiative targets seventy percent sectoral AI penetration by 2027, ninety by 2030 — fine-tuned vertical deployment treated the way past five-year plans treated high-speed rail. The players read like a sector directory: SenseTime for vision and embodied AI, iFlytek for speech in education and government, Baichuan Intelligence for healthcare, 4Paradigm for finance and industry, each fine-tuning a general base into something that only makes sense inside one workflow — a hospital’s diagnostic support tool, a bank’s risk model, an industrial inspection line.

The bet

Every frontier lab is implicitly betting that intelligence is the scarce resource, and that whoever has the most of it wins the enterprise market by default. Thinking Machines, Palantir, Sierra, and many others are all, in their different ways, betting against that premise — that raw intelligence is commoditizing faster than the frontier labs’ spending would suggest, and that the scarce resource has already migrated to whichever layer turns a generalist model into a specific customer’s model.

Thinking Machines is betting the moat moved to the farm-and-kitchen layer. Palantir, Sierra and others are betting it moved further still, to the restaurant, where nobody cares whose flour was used as long as the dish is right. China is betting on all three layers at once, with the state underwriting the bet directly.

It is a curious thing for me to watch companies with this much money and this much talent choose not to fight for the title of smartest model in the room. It is also a curious thing to watch them explain why, in public, in the first paragraph of an announcement.

But I think I’m beginning to understand.